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Home for the holidays (in icy Ireland)

Hello posh people!!!

I’m popping in today to write about my trip home for Christmas. I go home every year to do what most people do during the holidays: eat far too much and do as little as possible whilst fighting with various family members. This year however, we shook things up a little: my lovely girlfriend Jen came over for a visit.

I think it’s safe to say that Jen came back to Texas safe in the knowledge that there are two things you really need to know about Ireland. It is a beautiful country, and it is unmercifully cold. I have some photographic evidence to back up both of these statements.

You can’t tell, but she’s having a great time. We took this picture on a trip to the Cliffs of Moher whilst travelling around my favourite part of Ireland, the west coast of Counties Clare and Galway. Ireland is suffering the same cold snap affecting the rest of Europe at the moment, so things were pretty rough. The main road to my uncle Brian’s was flooded, so we had to (very slowly) take an alternative route. More chance to check out cool scenery though.

This part of Ireland is called the Burren, which is famous for being a karst region in Ireland, made up mostly of limestone. This makes for fantastic scenery. Oliver Cromwell famously sent a scout into the Burren, only for the grim report to come back that “There isn’t tree to hang a man, water to drown a man nor soil to bury a man.” Yup, Oliver Cromwell. Not a nice guy.

It also means there are some interesting geographic features, as my old teacher Mr. O’Brien would describe them. My favourite are turloughs, or winter lakes. Due to the higher water table in the winter and  the limestone bedrock, the Burren has lots of small lakes that turn up in winter time when the water table rises and disappear during the summer. Thanks to the unbelievable weather these lakes had frozen over.

See the fence over the frozen lake?

Of course, my main reason to go to the Burren is to see family. I don’t always have American tourists with me, you know. Here’s a picture of my cousin Cliona.

You see? I can embarrass younger cousins from thousands of miles away. My dad is the oldest of nine and has dutifully taken on the responsibility of making fun of all his younger siblings and their offspring at every opportunity. I’m in training to take over. It all works in a hierarchy though; my dad’s younger siblings are free to torment me and by extension Jen. For my uncle Brian this mostly consisted of driving about ninety miles per hour down roads barely wide enough for his car while interrogating Jen about trivial matters instead of watching the road. It was great!

After a couple of days of Jen being terrorised by my uncle Brian and some more rather hairy country driving, we returned to Cork, where it seems things have gotten a little ghetto since the economy crashed.

We decided it might be prudent to get out of the city, and braved the icy roads to visit the lovely town of Kinsale.

Kinsale was the site of the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, when a combination of Irish and Spanish forces were defeated by the English, more or less settling what is now known as the Nine Years War and resulting in the “Flight of the Earls”, the end of the Irish political aristocracy. Today, Kinsale is noticeable for being picturesque, having a comedy festival, and sporting numerous oddly named retail establishments.

It’s never really struck me before how easy it is to recreate postcard-type photographs in Ireland. You’ve got the little village by the sea:

and the medieval tower in the middle of nowhere:

This was even before I took Jen to Blarney Castle.

Incidentally, the gift shop at Blarney had quite possibly the most cray tote bag ever.

Jen kissed the Blarney stone, and is now officially an eloquent person everyone! Yay! She needed it, because it was time to make merry and meet all the people I went to school and college with, and still talk to, all while drinking quite a lot of Guinness.

Ok, ok. We were having too much fun to take any decent photographs of the pub shenanigans. To make up for it, I decided to post a picture of the family dog in  a snuggie.

Rolo, our American Spaniel. As you can see, the members of my family enjoy both celebrating the Christmas spirit and making animals look ridiculous. He seemed okay with it! We even had little Santas holding our olives and sun dried tomatoes in place (we were trying to impress our visitor).

I tucked in to my favourite meal of the year. Yum.

All in all, I think it went ok! My family succeeded at not imploding or otherwise being embarrassing in front of our visitor, and I think Jen enjoyed meeting so many people in such a short space of time. You did very well Jen. Maybe you can show me up in the comments! Though I’m not lying everyone. Really.

Bye Ireland. See you in December.

Discussion

13 comments for “Home for the holidays (in icy Ireland)”

  1. Back when I was young man I went to Ireland back in the 60’s to meet all my grandmother and relatives on my mother’s side. Great host the Irish. I was always intrigued when having a drink in a pub and Irishmen hearing my American accent would come over and start talking to me. After about 5 minutes he would always ask if I knew his cousin in New York or Boston, like the states were just a couple of towns close by. Then after that they would try to see if I was somehow related to someone they knew I guess that has changed these days, but I am sure Jen got a lot of attention wherever she went. But then again I never went in the winter. Nice report and pictures.

    Posted by Posh's Dad | January 14, 2010, 6:05 pm
  2. Yes Mr. Pitre, the classic “my cousin Paul is in Queens….. do you know him?”

    I’m not sure if that still happens, but it’s a well known thing!

    Irish people are still exceptionally friendly to Americans. Some things never change.

    Posted by jjharney | January 15, 2010, 12:59 pm
  3. Wow, what an interesting trip. I would also be interested in seeing Jen’s version of it ;) . It looks soooo cold and I hate the cold. I do want to visit Ireland one day (preferable in the summer). I believe that Tommy’s family is from Galway and his 98 yr old grandma still goes almost every year to visit relatives. I also have a good friend who lives in Dublin..so one day. I really love that the sign telling people not to skip out on the gas bill was really polite and nice . So, did you bring the snuggie for the dog or has it infiltrated Ireland too?! Glad you guys had a good trip and thanks for the fun post. P.S. Did you know that Tommy is in China right now? :)

    Posted by Selina | January 15, 2010, 1:13 pm
  4. Hi Selina! I had no idea Tommy was in China. How is he getting on?

    I love Galway. You have to go! Also, this winter was especially cold. It’s normally not too bad!

    Posted by jjharney | January 15, 2010, 1:23 pm
  5. How great! What beautiful pics, and of course my favorite is the ADORABLE one of Jen all wrapped up and chilly. Well, that’s tied with the LEPRECHAUNETTE! tote bag. Because why does that exist?

    We’re happy to have you both back Stateside!

    Posted by Meredith | January 15, 2010, 1:40 pm
  6. Nice post, John. Please take me on a tour of Ireland some day. Please?

    Posted by Joshua Katz | January 15, 2010, 2:05 pm
  7. Great post, John! Ireland looks so beautiful, and hey, no zombies!

    Posted by Jenny Bragdon | January 17, 2010, 5:09 pm
  8. Yes, Tommy is doing pretty well in China. He gets back on Thursday night. The weather was super cold in Beijing (low of about 0 degrees!) but he seemed to enjoy it. Now he is in Shanghai where its warmer. Luckily he has had pretty good experiences with the food so far.

    Posted by Selina | January 19, 2010, 11:04 am
  9. great post john…although i miss the many pictures of chinese food in your usual posts

    Posted by winston | January 20, 2010, 6:57 am
  10. john, i can see i’ve trained you well for le blog, cos MAJOR PANTS FOR THAT PHOTO OF YR CHRISTMAS DINNER!!! oh holiday food, i miss you already.

    thanks so much for this entertaining and highly educational (irish history what!) post. i would like to second the suggestion that jen write her side of things, esp. the part about cray cray uncle brian and his methods of interrogation (fear via threat of car crash).

    Posted by Sarah | January 20, 2010, 1:42 pm
  11. I love that it is the embarrassment that will get the better of you when you steal gas…

    Posted by Sally | January 21, 2010, 10:04 am
  12. Oh my gosh, my trip to Ireland was A-MAZING. The first thing I have to say about Ireland is that it is gorgeous, and magical, and COLD. I dressed like the first picture EVERYDAY. Selina, I definitely recommend a summer visit. :) Secondly, John’s family is so great! They treated me like one of the family. They did this by constantly stuffing me with food, chocolate, and drinks. It was heaven. I wish I’d taken more food pictures but I ate everything before I got the chance. Sorry Sarah! And now for John’s Uncle Brian. He was hilarious. He talked about a million words a minute and had such great stories. I’m really glad I got to meet him. I just hope I never have to get into a car with him again! I’m so glad I got to go. Thank you John (and the rest of the Harneys) for such a fantastic Christmas! <3

    Posted by Jennifer Taylor | January 21, 2010, 11:58 am
  13. yay jen!! thanks for sharing yr POV.

    “he talked about a million words a minute”… hmmm. sounds like someone else we know!!

    Posted by Sarah | January 21, 2010, 12:51 pm

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