Archive for January, 2007

londony london: part two

also ran by the french kicks

i’d like to point out that, the morning after sleeping in the communist bloc, i did not take a shower. THAT’s how much i wanted to get out of there. plus, there were no towels, so i guess that was a big factor, too.

henri and i dragged our luggage across town to eagerly settle into my dear friend olivia’s apartment. olivia and her bf were off in mexico city to apparently have a few run-ins with mexican wrestlers (seriously), so we had the place all to ourselves. and it was WARM. and the TOILET WORKED. and there were TOWELS.

i celebrated by taking a shower. henri celebrated by taking a nap.

finally ready to face the world, we headed to my most favorite place in london, the tate modern. do you know WHY it’s my favorite place?

cos it’s the type of museum that hosts an artistic installation of SLIDES. real, shiny, twisty turny SLIDES!

slides at the tate modern

i know!!!!!!

it’s like crazy straws for giants!

unfortunately, you have to get (free) tickets to the slides, and they were all sold out. but i managed to live vicariously through an old, slightly arthritic man who yelled, “woooooo!!!” during the entire duration of his journey. he was great.

after wandering through rooms heaping with marvelous art, henri and i headed over to leicester square for dinner and a perfomance of “avenue q.” see, i was all proud of myself, cos i’d gotten this dinner & play deal that allowed us to enjoy a tasty gourmet meal at a place called apex before the show. the internet told me that apex was “right around the corner” from the theater, so we’d have plenty of time to eat at 6 PM and then catch the show at 8:30.

we went by the theater to collect our tickets, and i asked the box office manager, “where is apex?” he said, “i’m not sure… but it’s close.”

we asked the ushers, and they had no idea.

surely, henri said, it must be around here somewhere.

do you know how many restaurants are around leicester square, which is basically the london version of broadway, i.e. times square? i do. BECAUSE HENRI AND I SPENT 45 MINUTES RACING DOWN EVERY FREAKING STREET IN THE GREATER LEICESTER AREA.

our quiet assurance quickly turned to desperation. it was like losing a child in the crowded, strange streets, except it was my posh meal, which obviously in my eyes is about the same thing. i felt like sally field in that tv movie that everyone always references. “NOT WITHOUT MY TASTY BUSINESS!” except my outfit was way, way better.

henri and i came up with a system where we split up and agreed to meet back up on a different corner every five minutes. we asked every pedi-cab driver we saw. we went inside convenience stores and asked the owners. even the guy with the yellow reflective vest and grubby map, who claimed he worked for the city, couldn’t cough up any information with which to scam us.

i guess you could think of it as a v. v. efficient and speedy way of exploring the leicester area. for example, we got to see these cool chandeliers over the street:

street chandelier

at this point, my obsession for taking pictures was still competing with my obsession for eating, but soon i started treating my camera like a bastard stepchild (and that’s when you KNOW i’m hungry).

finally, desperately, we headed into a nearby radisson in order to trick the concierge into thinking we were guests for whom he should provide services. the conversation went something like this:

s: hi, uh, could you look up a restaurant for us, please? it’s called apex.

concierge pants (cp): is it connected with the hotel?

s&h [both unsure as to whether cp is trying to determine whether or not they are guests]: uh, yes? but no… i mean, it’s not in the hotel. it’s around here.

cp: apex?

s: apex.

cp: hmm… (typity type type) well…

s: [about to tear up as she thinks of her lost and lonely dinner]

cp: ahh… do you mean apex, the restaurant at our sister radisson?

s&h [still afraid of being called out as imposter guests]: wha?

cp: there is another radisson nearby, on leicester square, that has a restaurant called apex.

s&h: THAT’S IT!!!!!!!!!

cp: ok, here is a map…

s: THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU SO MUCH GOOD BYE!

seriously, what are the chances that the restaurant would be in another radisson?! clearly my stomach was wielding some sort of cray control over the universe.

joyfully, we ran all the way to… where we started. we had begun our search less than a BLOCK away from the restaurant but were distracted by this super electric neon carnival!

carnival in leicester square

you’d be distracted too, right? and did i mention there were bumper cars?!!! oh there were.
plus, to be fair, the restaurant sign was completely unassuming, AND the internet had NEGLECTED to tell me that apex is spelled like this: @pex.

what kind of junior high serial text messager named this place? GAH.

ANYWAY

so thankfully, they let us in, even though we were 45 minutes late. and that’s when i had the most tasty tasty tasty goat cheese @ppetizer:

delicious posh appetizer at apex

see that thing on the left? yeah, that’s an ONION. and get this: I ATE IT.

THAT’S how good this @ppetizer was. and/or how relieved i was to find my daughter.

after we managed to relax and enjoy our delicious me@l (ok, stopping now), we headed back to the theater to watch “avenue q,” which amber had recommended. this is what the theater looked like:

avenue q\

the show is basically like sesame street for adults, and it turned out to be really, really good. like, there was a song about searching for a purpose in life, a puppet who was trying to come out of the closet, and a pair of “bad idea bears,” who made people drink absinthe daiquiris. really, that’s all i need in order to be entertained (and seriously, i’m pretty sure those bad idea bears are from austin).

the next day, i took henri to my favorite london eatery, wagamama. you may remember seeing pictures of amber and me during our trip last summer, cos i always take noodle-eating pictures there. well, this time was no different…

uh, they deep fried our dumplings

EXCEPT for the fact that yes, that dumpling is deep-fried. due to some, uh, miscommunication with the waitress, they deep-fried the crap out of our sweet little dumplings instead of delicately pan-frying them.

so, like any good, patriotic american, i asked for a replacement. USA USA USA.

then, of course, the german couple next to us specially requested for their dumplings to be deep fried.

WHATEVER.

we were planning on a pleasant walk around kensington gardens, but then it started to rain in a v. nasty way. so, like every other tourist in the city, we decided to hit up the british museum.

the main hall of the museum makes everyone feel like they could be a photographer for national geographic. or at least, a cheesy calendar. cos i mean, look!

the british museum

henri was dutifully impressed, especially when we entered the reading room.

the reading room

i can’t help but feel bad for the people who actually really WANT to use the reading room. like they’re working on some huge important earth-shattering thesis, and they’re Just About to Have an Epiphany, when suddenly a hundred flashes go off and they’re reminded of their third birthday (cos smart people remember that far back) when mom and dad just couldn’t stop taking pictures and the flashes made them too blind to eat cake and then they started crying.

so yeah, i turned my flash off, just in case.

there’s a room all about the enlightenment period, which features a big ole stone foot:

big foot

and a model of the solar system:

a model of the solar system

right.

there’s also a huge temple with ghost-like, headless ladies dancing on the porch:

like ghosts

near the temple, there was a sign asking, “what’s the big deal about the __ temple and the british musem?” (or something like that). it was a reference to the fact that the british basically stole all of this stuff from other countries and never returned it, like a library book but waaaay worse. the sign said, “want to read about the official response of the british museum? take a brochure!” but there were no brochures. i wondered if there were any brochures to begin with, cos that would be a really great joke.

the museum closed, so we took the tube to meet.. AMBER! yes! finally! the illustrious, raven-haired heroine enters our story!

amber and her new mod haircut

here she is, at the bar of the institute for contemporary arts, which is poopy cos they wouldn’t let me take pictures of their exhibit. BUT they do have a bar, so i can’t absolutely hate them.

anyway, amber and i squealed and hugged and did a little tippy toe dance, then we proceeded to eat french frieds (chips) and dish about our holidays. henri and i were so glad to have her join in on our (post-apex, post-communist bloc) adventures.

which will be blogged about… soon.

until then, go eat at yr favorite restaurant and @ppreciate knowing where the heck it is.

like a billion free snowcones, but without the tasty syrup

fallen snow by au revoir simone

i’ve received several complaints regarding my lack of posting re: london.

but i have the ultimate excuse: ICE. tons and tons of ice.

look at thomas!!!!! he’s like a fossil!!!

ice_thomas

and see, when there’s ice anywhere, on a tree branch or rooftop, EVERYTHING IN AUSTIN MUST SHUT DOWN. because it is Highly Dangerous.

but it’s also Super Fun, cos ice means no work pants!!!!!!!

you know what else makes it Super Fun? random things encased in ice! when i was little, my best friend emily’s brother would freeze his GI Joes in plastic tubs and then pull them out of the freezer when the Emergency Military Arctic Rescue expedition recovered the bodies. i always wanted to do that to one of my barbies, but i was afraid it would mess up her hair.
anyway

ice makes everything more awesome [note: i typed "cooler" first but then couldn't go through with it]. like thomas’ little antennae friend!

snowman

although since he’s a snowman, i guess it makes sense.

ice days mean you can stay at home and watch “back to the future: part II” and read books and eat a ton of junk food cos that’s what bears do when they’re hibernating and nature knows best.

you might wonder, do ice days mean more time to write the next london post?
no, they do not, because IT IS HIGHLY DANGEROUS TO TYPE IN ICY WEATHER. yr fingers could experience severe slippage and fall right off yr keyboard.

but you know what’s not dangerous? playing with ice, especially breaking it over yr head, as skillfully demonstrated by henri:

ice_henri

another thing that’s not dangerous is jumping on a trampoline covered in a thick layer of ice that hides the huge gaping hole in the middle.

ice_tramp

to avoid cabin fever, it’s also necessary to have as many dance parties as possible.

robert

for exercise on ice days, i recommend the wii. you can play tennis without the Highly Dangerous Slippery Court conditions!

wii

[for more "how to make the most of yr ice days" photos, go to henri's flickr]

unfortunately, now i’m back at work, which is FAR more dangerous (hellooo paper cuts!). but that also means that v. v. soon , i’ll be posting the next chapter of my london journeys.

until then, i’ll be looking for something random to put in my freezer. and yes, it could be yr underwear, but only if it’s clean, cos otherwise, uh G to the ROSS. i mean, i put FOOD in there, people!

londony london: part one

various kitchen utensils by skybox


as you may know, henri and i decided to head over to london to ring in the new year with amber pants. when i saw her amberliciousness this summer, i swore i would return to celebrate the arrival of DOUBLE OH SEVEN, i.e. the dawn of a new age, when hopefully i become a super tough, classy hot spy who drinks martinis and is less easily bruised. subsequently, i needed to suddenly develop a british accent, and the only place you can properly do that is in london (otherwise you just sound like the monty python geeks in high school, otherwise known as The Drama Club, or, professionally speaking, the Thespian Society, and yes i was president).

henri had never been to europe before, so he was DEFINITELY in for a treat.. called JET LAG! YAY!

we arrived on the morning of the 28th and promptly failed to find petticoat towers, where we were staying for the night. we wandered the streets of east london while dragging our suitcases behind us (thank the sweet heavens for wheel technology) and growing increasingly desperate. the low point may have been when a bum threw a bottle at us. or it may have been when a lady gave us directions that led us completely AWAY from our final destination.

at any rate, we asked two cops (bobbys? is that right? am i making this up?) for help when we strayed into petticoat market, which looks like this:

petticoat market

in a moment of pure brilliance, they pointed to a building at the end of the street that, well, was the only tower-like structure within a few blocks.

PETTICOAT TOWERS! FINALLY! we heaved ourselves up the stairs as i imagined a mary poppins type scene with chimney sweeps and scampy old mutts.

instead, we entered communist russia.

the communist bloc where we stayed the first night

oh yes, america, communism is THRIVING in london, with shiny blue paint to mask the drabness and despair.

we walked into the office, where we were greeted by john, a pleasant, tottering old man with a bright red nose. thankfully, he knew about the room that had been arranged by our friend david, who lives in the tower itself. he agreed to take us there, but then stopped to answer a phone call. and then felt the need to take us around to the opposite end so we could see the restaurant that serves a truly delicious and cheap lunch. and then was accosted by two elderly residents complaining about cat poo.

old people: “this really is a DISGRACE.”

john: “mmm, right right, yes.”

old people: “something must be DONE!”

john: “mmkay, right, yes.”

after untangling himself from the conversation…

john, under his breath: “it’s just cat poop. why can’t they clean it up themselves?”

henri & sarah: “heh…”

john: “well, anyway… sarah, lead the way!”

sarah: “uh, john, i don’t know where we’re going.”

john: “oh yes RIGHT RIGHT. ok then!”

thirty minutes later, we got to the room, which john warned us was “rather spare,” and “certainly spartan.”

i think “spare” might have been an exaggeration.

our room in the communist bloc

i couldn’t bring myself to take a picture of the bathroom.

home, sweet communist bloc, home.

after lunch (yes, we went to the place john recommended), we returned to our room and noticed that it was STILL FREEZING. also we noticed that the TOILET DID NOT FLUSH.

since john encouraged us to contact him about Any Problems Whatsoever, we headed down to the office to express our concern.

sarah: “uh, john, i’m not so sure that the heater is working.”

john: “hmm, right right, ok.”

sarah: “i mean, it’s freezing in there.”

john: “mmm. right.”

sarah: “also, uh, the toilet doesn’t appear to flush properly.”

john: “mmkay. right.”

[suddenly i felt like i was complaining about cat poo]

sarah: “so…”

john: “well, we never know about these things until someone tells us!”

sarah: “right, well, yeah, so…”

john: “well i’ll be here until 4:30 in case you need something!”

sarah: …

john: “did i mention the pub around the corner has a great breakfast? although i’ve heard in america the breakfast platters are HUGE!”

sarah: …

john did teach us some new vocabulary, though, mostly in the form of “down & out,” a more fanciful way to say “bum” or “homeless person.” example: “i think that down & out just threw a bottle at us.”

henri and i decided to walk down brick lane, which features tons of indian restaurants followed by a hipster sector, as identified by the appearance of some banksy graffiti:

a bit of banksy
even though our new year’s was destined for greatness, the sentiment of this poster still resonated with me:

obviously these people don't know me

[by the way, myspace is all over the place in london. we kept seeing a poster of an empty pint glass with a formation of foam in the vague shape of jesus' face and the tagline simply read, "www.myspace.com/whereisjesus" or something like that. would that ever happen in america? no. and that is really tragic]

we stumbled upon a park with a playground, which of course requires play. one thing that’s better about europe than america is that people don’t sue each other as much, so the idea of liability probably comes up only when discussing lead paint and royal scandals. that means the playground was SUPER AWESOME, cos most of the equipment could probably cause Serious Harm, if not the loss of a limb.

my favorite was this spinning tree net thing. the ease with which i, at dizzying speed, could fall off of this contraption was simply stunning.

the most awesome piece of playground equipment

after recess, we headed over to olivia’s apartment, where we’d be staying for the rest of our trip (good-bye, communism!), to get the key from her boyfriend, david.

here is the view a mere twenty five steps away from olivia’s door:

a few steps from olivia's flat

glorious, glittering, capitalist london!

however, our most common view during the entire trip went a little something like this:

the underground

anyway

back in east london, we met up with david rose in his non-communist flat on the v. top of the tower, where the view looks like this:

view from david's flat in petticoat towers

seriously. gorgeous.

he took us to brick lane for some TASTY TASTY indian food, followed by a visit to two bars. in the first pub, there were a TON of chandeliers. i discovered that in london, most pubs have chandeliers. but this one had an excess of them, and i liked that. i need an excess of chandeliers in my apartment for double oh seven, i’m certain. anyway, here’s one of the fixtures:

this pub was full of chandeliers

then david took us to what he deemed “a new york city bar,” which means that it was actually open LATER THAN 11:30. see, the crappy think about london in the winter is that EVERYTHING CLOSES BEFORE YR GRANDMOTHER GOES TO BED. i know, it’s appalling. henri and i bore this burden during the entire trip, and i have to say, it was quite a hardship, sort of like dealing with cholera on the oregon trail.

anyway, at the nyc bar, i decided to visit the piddly diddly department (seriously that is how they say “go pee” in britain. or at least, that’s what i learned in “angus, thongs and full frontal snogging” ANYWAY) and was slightly alarmed to find A BOY IN THE GIRL’S BATHROOM.

he was nice, though, especially when a girl came in, almost in tears, cos the cuff of her jeans was caught in her new, fancy boots (btw everyone in london wears tall boots right now. it is The Style). the Boy in the Bathroom carefully extracted her pant leg from the boot while preserving the zipper!

i think the beauty of the moment bonded all of us. here’s the group, moments after the miracle took place:

i met them in the girls bathroom

(the girl in the gray was the one with the boot issue)

after david told me that my british accent is terrible (LIES), we decided to call it a night and head back to the motherland.

where our room was still freezing.

i fell asleep picturing john saying, “mmm, right, right, ok.”